This season is defined by a ‘Return to glamour’ with designers delving into the archives for inspiration.
Emerging from this pursuit of the past is a classic womanly imprint with ‘dressing up’ its abiding mantra. Retro-inspired minimalism dictates the season’s silhouette from `20s drop waists to `40s tunic dressing and `60s boxy shapes; with a strong masculine/feminine power play.
Timeless tailoring is a big story with outerwear its fashion headline. Think double and single-breasted blazers, sharp-shouldered capes, gilets, ponchos and most especially, the overcoat – a key investment piece. The antidote to such simplicity comes in the shape of `70s maximalism and `90s luxe grunge from high-waist trousers, Mongolian chubbies and pleated blouses; to nocturnal velvet, lace and bonded leather – punchy yet polished.
Silhouettes remain long and lean with cigarette trousers and midi skirts still trend-worthy. Shape and fabric make a symbiotic pair with clean lines parlayed in luxury materials like jacquard, eco fur; calf, sheep and goat skins. Detail similarly follows suit whether pin-precise pleats at Prada or Marni’s volume specific hip and shoulder bows – a testament to the season’s intention.
Last season’s stripes and spots have been added to the check list with plaids, patchwork and geometric prints figuring strongly; while a winter bouquet of roses and tulips keeping florals at the forefront.
Palette-wise, bold colours continue to dominate with full-bodied bordeaux leading the red brigade. Kelly green, teal and navy also find expression alongside sophomore autumnal hues such as ochre and cognac and the ever-omnipresent black.
